F.A.Q.

 

Q – What is a flue?

A – NFPA 211, the standards that most local Building Codes are formed from, states in section 3.3.82 Flue: The general term for a passage through which gases are conveyed from the combustion chamber to the outer air. That’s the “technical” answer! Simply put, it’s that hole in the center of your chimney, whether the chimney is metal, brick or block that vents the fumes, exhaust gases or smoke from your boiler, furnace, water heater, wood stove or whatever heating appliance that is hooked to that chimney.

 

Q – How do I know if I have a flue in my chimney?

A – That’s a common question. The simple answer is, if you have a chimney, you have a flue! What most people are really asking is “how do I know if my chimney has a liner or not?”. You see, most older chimneys have no liner, or if it has a clay or “tile” liner they can become eroded over time. The “liner” protects the interior of your chimney, from the exhaust fumes escaping into your home.

 

Personal Note: Many people call regarding their fireplace, usually saying the “flue” doesn’t work. What is really meant is in a fireplace, there is frequently a damper above the opening that is missing or doesn’t open. The actual flue is above that.

 

Q – What’s the difference between a liner and

an insulated chimney?

A – An insulated chimney is actually a “manufactured” chimney. These come in different forms. Sometimes, such as in a manufactured fireplace, sometimes called a zero clearance fireplace, these are usually a double or triple wall chimney. This only means there’s 2 or 3 pipes, with air spaces between.

 

“Insulated chimneys” usually have an inside stainless steel pipe, a layer of insulation, then an outside pipe of either stainless steel or galvanized metal. A liner on the other hand can be clay or “terra cotta”, aluminum or stainless steel. A “liner” uses an exterior shell, usually of some form of masonry to support it, and provide protection to combustible surroundings.

 

Q – How come sometimes when I try to start a fire it smokes back at me?

A – Without getting extremely technical regarding atmospheric pressure and draft, simply put, when a chimney or vent hasn’t been used the air is usually coming down the flue. Once the air is warmed in the fireplace or stove the draft begins, or reverses pulling the smoke up the chimney. Usually just lighting a piece of newspaper first near the bottom of the flue will accomplish this. We have some Customers that use a small propane torch to heat the air in their stove to start the draft up the flue first.

 

Q – What is the purpose for a cat?

A – A “cat” or Catalytic combustor was and is still being used in some stoves. Just as on your car the catalytic combustor heats the “exhaust” or smoke from your stove, and burns the combustible fuel still in the smoke at a higher temperature. This reclaims a little more of the heat available from the smoke. There’s usually one way the stove vents into the flue to get the fire started, then once the smoke gets up to a certain temperature, say 500 degrees, a baffle is engaged, causing the smoke to go through the “cat” creating a cleaner burning stove. Most newer stoves have attained a cleaner burn without the use of the “cat”.

 

Q – Does waterproofing seal my chimney?

A – The products we use do NOT “seal” your chimney. Masonry, which many chimneys are built of, whether from a foggy damp night or rain, absorb moisture. The waterproofing products we use allow the masonry to “breathe” the way it needs to, while repelling rain water and moisture.

 

Q – How do I know when my chimney is falling apart? How often should I clean my stove, fireplace or chimney?

A – NFPA recommends inspecting chimneys or flues annually, cleaning if needed. This is the “safest” way to approach this question. When you consider that a chimney is usually venting noxious or hazardous fumes, it’s a good idea to be sure it’s working properly. In the case of a wood stove or fireplace there could be creosote buildup, creating the possibility of a chimney fire. Once we’ve inspected your chimney and installation, and understand your use habits we can recommend a maintenance schedule that works for your type of use.

 

Q – Why do clean you clean from the bottom up?

A – We usually clean fireplaces from the bottom up. This is because of the amount of soot or creosote we may be dealing with. We use drop cloths and a special vacuum to control the dust usually created, however on occasion a large amount of soot may be dislodged. By cleaning from the bottom, alongside our vacuum we can go faster or slower as needed to protect your home. Sometimes, from the bottom is the safest place to clean from, depending upon the chimney or roof configuration. We decide once we’re at your home, during our preliminary inspection, the best way to clean your specific chimney.

 

Q – Why do you need to know what style my house is?

A – We usually ask what home style you have so we can be properly prepared to take care of everything on our first trip. Though we have our trucks very well equipped, sometimes we may need an extra ladder or piece of equipment not usually carried on our truck. Also, your home style helps us budget enough time on your site. It takes longer to setup and take down 2 ladders for a center chimney colonial home with a 12/12 pitch, than it does for a ranch style home with a 5/12 pitch.

 

Q – How do I know what size Wood Stove

to put in my house?

A – We offer a free estimate for most work. We would be glad to come out to your home and recommend a stove, whether wood or pellet that fits your use style, along with any venting or chimney needs that may be required.

 

Some Additional Information for Terms Used Above

• NFPA stands for National Fire Protection Association
• NFPA 31 is the Standard for the installation of Oil-Burning Equipment
• NFPA 54 is the National Fuel Gas Code
• CSIA stands for Chimney Safety Institute of America
• NFPA 211 is the Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances